Zero Waste Fashion - Our Definition

Zero Waste Fashion has become a "thing" in the last few years, but what does it mean exactly?  

I first read about one of the US based pioneers in the field, Timo Risannen, in an NYT article several years ago but had been unknowingly practicing a version of the concept with Jag & Nevie for awhile.  Mr. Rissanen has been teaching and writing on the subject for years now and I adore his blog.

Zero Waste dwells at the intersection of many eco friendly practices briefly outlined in a great series of articles on Seamwork Magazine's site.  Some of these concepts are mentioned below;  cutting, scraps as design elements and using previously manufactured items.

If you Google around you'll find fashion designers whom cleverly design patterns so as to cut fabric in ways that don't discard a millimeter of yardage. Holly McQuillan's work is a great example of this: 

Here she shows how to lay out pattern pieces for several garments in a very complex and effective way. 














Another part of the concept is designing with scraps from the fabric & fashion industry - my favorite example of this is Zero Waste Daniel  whom works and manufacturers in Brooklyn.

Zero Waste Fashion also includes up cycling which is where we come in. Finding beauty in a (re)useful piece of fabric from a discarded t shirt, sweater or pair of jeans is the absolute foundation of Jag & Nevie.

After using large chunks of a garment I incorporate the small leftover pieces as appliqués, fringe, patches, ribbons, what have you.  The studio is overwhelmed with bags & tubs of scraps waiting for their new incarnation;-)

APPLIQUÉS; FLAT & 3-D

FRINGE: T SHIRT FABRIC & CASHMERE

I am so excited every time I find a way to salvage a special texture like sleeve ribbing or a waist band.

SLEEVE RIBBING: CASHMERE HATS

JEANS: HEM AND INSEAM; T SHIRTS (made into a tote bag)

WAISTBAND PILFED FROM A PAIR OF SHRUNKEN BOXERS:-0

In summary, Zero Waste Fashion is just as the name applies - an endless array of techniques employed to prevent, or at least delay, the shameful amount of textile refuse accumulation that is rapidly polluting our planet.  If we wear what we already own until it is beyond salvation and buy from zero waste designers we will care for Mother Nature in the most chic and responsible manner imaginable.  Thank you for doing your part.

Get Winter Ready with Sweater Salvation!

I know, I know, it's not cold yet, but I hate to break it to you - it will be.  Ratz.  

So... about those damaged sweaters....

Do you have a few that got chocolate syrup and marinara sauce on them?  Can't bear to toss them but can't exactly leave the house wearing them either?  

SEND TO ME!

It's sweater salvation time.  I offer two appliquéd options - the simple, elegant and fun Mod Posie and the complicated, spectacular, studded Frou-Frou Posie.  Which do you prefer?

Mod Posie:

On Etsy Here 

The Frou-Frou Posie:

On Etsy Here

Send 'em on over.  I'll breathe new life into them pronto. 

Save That Baby! A Woolens Salvation DIY Story.

As you know, I'm a rabid Up Cycler, Recycler, DIY person, so this project will not surprise you.  I've had a gorgeous, stretch wool Ralph Lauren blazer for probably 20 years and all of the sudden it sprang a few holes.  It's such a classic and fits so well I couldn't bear to pitch it.  
The venerable Dame Vivienne Westwood wrote somewhere that she notice mending spots on the Prince of Wales wool jackets, so I thought - YES!  If it's good 'nuff for Charles, grandpa to those beautiful Wills+Kate babies, it's good enough for me.  Here it is:

The beloved Ralph.  Just curvy enough.

One of the nasty buggers.

What to do?  I chose my favorite Mod 1960s/70s bathtub no-slip sticker shapes to applique out of scraps from a brighter blue cashmere sweater.

Reducing/enlarging stencils on the printer gives you several sizes to chose from.

After I had the templates (stencils) cut out I practiced placing them on the jacket like so.  This is a very important step in making the decisions on what sizes look best and how to achieve overall visual balance.  In order to make an exciting design I added more than was required to cover the holes.

                                                                 

Next I ironed the cashmere onto my favorite fusible, Heat n' Bond Lightweight.  (Their heavy weight ones are too stiff and gum up sewing machine needles - don't buy them!)  Whole bolts from fabric stores or online if you appliqué a lot, as I do.   After I cut out the "posies" I began pinning them over the holes and wherever it made visual sense.  Once I was happy with the "layout" I ironed them on using a thin cotton pressing cloth so as not to burn the cashmere appliqués or the jacket fabric.  Where the seams and curves around the shoulders are I used a tailors egg-shaped pressing form to make the iron-ons conform to the shape.

The next step was to start hand sewing them on with a simple embroidery edge stitch.  A  fairly thick needle was necessary to go through the layers of fabric.

I chose heavy black embroidery floss because I thought it framed the shape well and stood out just enough from the navy jacket.

Now, a commitment caveat - this is not a 10-minute project!  I reckon it took about 5 hours to finish all of the appliquéing.  If it were possible to do them on the machine I would have, but that also wouldn't have produced the same textural, shiny effect achieved with embroidery thread.  If you want to take on an act of salvation get into your best zen mode and relax, just do it:-)

 

The finished blazer elicits all kinds of compliments and "Wow! You did it yourself?!" comments.  You can do it too!